The Shilla Seoul: Korean Luxury at Its Most Refined

The Setting

The Shilla Seoul sits within its own 23-acre estate on Namsan mountain, a few kilometres south of the historic centre. The grounds — formal gardens, a reflecting pond, ancient pines — offer an unexpected retreat from Seoul's density. The building itself is a confident slab of 1970s Korean modernism that has aged better than expected.

The Room

We stayed in a Deluxe Hill View Room, which overlooked the palace gardens and the mountain through floor-to-ceiling windows. The design is contemporary without affecting minimalism: warm tones, traditional Korean craft elements (a lacquerware cabinet, mother-of-pearl inlay on the desk), exceptionally good bed. The bathroom was large, marble-lined, and equipped with a deep soaking tub.

La Yeon

The Shilla's Korean fine dining restaurant, La Yeon, holds three Michelin stars and is widely regarded as the finest Korean restaurant in the world. The hanjeongsik (traditional multi-course Korean meal) we ate here was an eight-course journey through Korean culinary tradition at its most refined — fermented vegetables of extraordinary depth, a beef tartare seasoned with pine nuts and soy that was transcendent, a slow-braised short rib in traditional gochujang broth. The lunch tasting menu offers better value than dinner.

The Spa

The spa occupies two floors and incorporates a traditional Korean jjimjilbang (gender-segregated bathhouse) alongside Western treatment rooms. The signature treatment begins with a body scrub using traditional Italy towels, followed by a full-body massage using Korean medicinal herbal poultices. We emerged reformed.

The Pool

An indoor-outdoor pool extends beneath a retractable glass roof, heated year-round. The garden view from the pool is the hotel's best-kept secret — an oasis of traditional Korean garden design in a city that rarely pauses.

Verdict

The Shilla Seoul has a distinct identity and a commitment to Korean cultural tradition that sets it apart from the international luxury brands in the city. La Yeon alone is worth the stay.

Best for: Food enthusiasts, those wanting genuine Korean luxury, travellers wanting cultural depth Room rate: From £350 per night Tip: Book La Yeon's lunch tasting menu — it is more accessible than dinner and the food is identical.