Hotel Alfonso XIII, Seville: Flamenco, Fiestas, and a Moorish-Revival Palace

The History

King Alfonso XIII commissioned the hotel in 1916 to showcase the best of Andalusian craftsmanship for the 1929 Exposition. No expense was spared: hand-painted azulejo tiles from the Real Fábrica de Loza in Seville, intricate plasterwork by the finest artisans of the day, a central courtyard with a fountain and orange trees designed to evoke the Generalife in Granada. The hotel opened in 1928 and has hosted every important visitor to Seville since.

The Restoration

A Marriott-managed renovation completed in 2022 has restored the hotel to the standard its architecture deserves. The public spaces are extraordinary: the central patio, with its marble fountain surrounded by horseshoe arches and Moorish-revival ornament, is one of Spain's finest interior spaces. Walking through it at night, when it is lit and the fountain is running, is a privilege.

The Room

We stayed in a Superior King, which offered period architecture — plasterwork ceiling, original ceramic floor tiles, casement windows onto the courtyard — combined with contemporary luxury in the bathrooms and bedding. The combination works better than it has any right to.

El Refectorio

The hotel restaurant, El Refectorio, serves Andalusian cuisine in a vaulted dining room that was originally the monks' refectory of an adjacent convent. The gazpacho and salmorejo are definitive. The grilled dorada (sea bream) with almonds and sherry reduction is the best thing on the menu. The Spanish wine list is expertly assembled and fairly priced.

The Bar and Flamenco

The Bar Alfonso XIII is the finest hotel bar in Seville — a room of extraordinary architectural ornament that functions simultaneously as an aperitivo bar, a sherry-tasting destination, and a Seville social space. On Thursday and Friday evenings, a small flamenco performance is staged in the patio. It is not the raw, emotional experience you find in a cave in Sacromonte, but it is very good.

Verdict

The Alfonso XIII is the sort of hotel that makes you understand why people travel specifically for hotels. The architecture is extraordinary, the restoration is authoritative, and the setting in Seville's historic centre — near the Alcázar, the Cathedral, and the Barrio Santa Cruz — is perfect.

Best for: Architecture lovers, those wanting to understand Andalusian grandeur, flamenco enthusiasts Room rate: From €300 per night Tip: Request a patio-facing room — the view of the courtyard from the window at night is unforgettable.