Barcelona

Getting There

Fly into El Prat (BCN). The airport bus (Aerobús) runs directly to Plaça Catalunya every 5 minutes. The metro covers most of the city; the T-Casual card (10 journeys) is the most economical option.

Gaudí

The Sagrada Família is the work of a genius who understood that he would never live to see it finished and designed it anyway. Book tickets online weeks in advance to avoid the queue, and add the tower lifts. The experience inside — the forest of columns, the coloured light — is as extraordinary as the exterior promises. Park Güell is best early morning before the ticketed area opens to the crowds. Casa Batlló and Casa Milà (La Pedrera) on Passeig de Gràcia are worth one of the two; we'd choose La Pedrera for the rooftop.

The Neighbourhoods

El Born (Gothic palaces, independent restaurants, the covered market Mercat de Santa Caterina) is the best neighbourhood for eating and wandering. El Raval is grittier and more genuinely local. Gràcia (above the Eixample) is residential, quiet, and excellent for lunch. The famous Las Ramblas is fine for 15 minutes and then you've seen it.

What to Eat

Catalonia has its own distinct cuisine. Pa amb tomàquet (bread rubbed with tomato and olive oil) is on every table. Mercat de la Boqueria is worth visiting once for the theatre; buy jamón ibérico, cheese, and fruit but don't eat at the tourist restaurants inside. For a proper meal, the tapas bars of El Born — Bar del Pla, El Xampanyet — are the benchmark. Cava (Catalan sparkling wine) is what you drink with everything and costs almost nothing.

The Beach and Nightlife

Barceloneta beach is functional and pleasant. The nightlife doesn't start until midnight and runs until 6am; the clubs around Port Olímpic and in the Eixample are the correct venues depending on your preferences. Rooftop bars — particularly at the Hotel Arts and the W Hotel — are exceptional for sunsets.