Amalfi Coast

Getting There

Fly into Naples (NAP). From Naples, the coast is accessible by ferry (the most pleasant option, runs April–October), by car (beautiful but stressful — the road is narrow and the coach drivers own it), or by bus from Sorrento. If you're driving, stay somewhere with private parking and leave the car there.

The ferry from Naples to Positano or Amalfi town runs daily in season and is the correct way to arrive.

The Towns

Positano is the most photographed and the most expensive. Worth it for a night or two, less so for a week. Ravello sits high above the coast — quieter, cooler, genuinely beautiful, and almost entirely free of the day-trip crowds that descend on the coastal towns by midday. Praiano is between Positano and Amalfi town and half the price of either.

Amalfi town itself is worth an hour — the cathedral is handsome and the main square is good for people-watching — but it's also the main coach-tour destination, so time your visit accordingly.

What to Eat

Mozzarella di bufala from the farms above Paestum (a 45-minute drive south) is the best in the world. Eat it immediately, without adornment, while it's still warm. The local white wines — Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo — are underrated and underpriced. Sfogliatella (a flaky shell-shaped pastry filled with ricotta and semolina) is the correct breakfast.

For dinner, seek out the family-run trattorias in the hill villages above the main coastal towns. They're less scenic but significantly better value, and the views at sunset justify the drive.

When to Go

May and September are ideal — warm enough to swim, thin enough to move. July and August are crowded and expensive. October is beautiful and getting quieter, with the sea still warm enough for swimming until mid-month. The coast closes down substantially between November and March.

By Boat

Hire a private boat for a day. This is not an extravagance — split four ways, it typically costs less than two mid-range restaurant meals. You'll access coves that are unreachable from the road, and the view of Positano from the water is the view that earns its reputation.