Andalusia's capital and the home of flamenco, tapas culture, and the largest Gothic cathedral in the world. In spring during Semana Santa, the city becomes the most theatrical place on earth.
Getting There
Fly into Seville (SVQ) or into Málaga (AGP), which has more connections — it's 2.5 hours by train. High-speed AVE trains connect Seville to Madrid in under 3 hours. The city centre is compact; walking and cycling (the Sevici hire scheme) cover most of it.
The Cathedral and the Alcázar
The Cathedral of Seville is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and contains Columbus's tomb (disputed, but the claim is made). The Giralda minaret-turned-bell-tower attached to it can be climbed via ramp rather than stairs — the view over the city from the top is the correct orientation for a first visit.
The Real Alcázar is the working royal palace (still used by the Spanish royal family) built on Moorish foundations — one of the finest examples of Mudéjar architecture in existence and the most visually striking interior in Andalusia. Book in advance; the morning queue without a booking is significant.
Flamenco
Seville is the home of flamenco. The Triana neighbourhood on the western bank of the Guadalquivir has the authentic tablao (performance venue) tradition — La Casa del Flamenco in the Santa Cruz barrio is one of the most respected smaller venues. The experience at its best — duende, the indefinable quality of performance that goes beyond technique — is not reproducible anywhere else.
What to Eat
The tapas culture here is different from Barcelona's — smaller, cheaper, more deeply embedded in daily life. The correct approach is to move between bars, having one or two dishes at each. Jamón ibérico de bellota (acorn-fed Iberian ham) from the Jabugo and Guijuelo producers. Torrijas (a Spanish bread pudding, usually eaten during Semana Santa). A glass of manzanilla (very dry sherry from Sanlúcar, served cold) is obligatory.
Semana Santa
Holy Week in Seville is the most theatrical religious event in Europe — sixty brotherhoods carry floats through the streets over seven days, some from before dawn until after midnight. Book accommodation a year in advance if attending. Even if you're not religious, the spectacle is unforgettable.
Posts from Seville
Seville's Flamenco Scene: Where to See the Real Thing
Flamenco was born in Andalucía and Seville is its spiritual home. But the line between authentic art form and tourist performance can be hard to identify. Here is how to see the real thing.
Reviews from Seville
Hotel Alfonso XIII, Seville: Flamenco, Fiestas, and a Moorish-Revival Palace
Built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition on a scale that would have made the Habsburgs blush, the Alfonso XIII is the grandest hotel in Andalusia and one of the finest in Spain. It has just emerged from a comprehensive restoration.
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