Seoul

Getting There

Fly into Incheon International (ICN) — one of Asia's best airports. The Airport Railroad (AREX) connects to Seoul Station in 43 minutes. The T-money card covers metro, buses, and some taxis throughout the country.

The Palaces

Five grand Joseon Dynasty palaces survive in Seoul. Gyeongbokgung is the largest and most restored — the changing of the royal guard ceremony takes place at the main gate twice daily. Changdeokgung has the finest garden in Korea (the Secret Garden, Huwon) and requires a guided tour. Deoksugung can be visited independently and has an interesting arts and crafts museum attached. The Bukchon Hanok Village between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung is a preserved neighbourhood of traditional hanok houses — best explored on a weekday morning before the tourist crowds.

The Food Markets

Gwangjang Market (open since 1905) is the most important food market in Seoul — mayak gimbap (tiny seaweed rice rolls with sesame), bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes), raw marinated beef (yukhoe). Eat at the stalls inside, not the restaurants at the entrance. Noryangjin Fish Market is the wholesale fish auction — most dramatic in the early morning, with the option to buy directly and have it prepared upstairs.

Korean BBQ and Fried Chicken

Two essential experiences. Korean BBQ (samgyeopsal — grilled pork belly, wrapped in lettuce with kimchi and garlic) is best in the Mapo or Hongdae neighbourhoods. Korean fried chicken (chimaek — the combination of chicken and maekju/beer) at any of the thousands of dedicated chicken restaurants. Order a half-and-half (half soy garlic, half spicy).

K-Culture and Nightlife

The Hongdae neighbourhood (around Hongik University) is the centre of youth culture, street performance, and clubs that open late and close late. Itaewon has the highest concentration of international restaurants and bars. The Gangnam district (south of the Han River) is the affluent commercial centre — the context for Psy's 2012 song that you will have forgotten and then immediately remember.