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Florence
Italy

The cradle of the Renaissance: Brunelleschi's dome, the Uffizi, Michelangelo's David, the Ponte Vecchio, and a food culture — bistecca alla Fiorentina, lampredotto, Chianti — that needs no introduction.

Getting There

Fly into Florence (FLR) for direct European connections, or into Pisa (PSA) which is 80 minutes by train. Rome is 90 minutes by high-speed train. The train station (Santa Maria Novella) is 10 minutes' walk from the Duomo; most of the city is walkable from there.

The Art

The Uffizi Gallery is the must: Botticelli's Birth of Venus and Primavera, Leonardo, Raphael, Titian, Caravaggio. Book online weeks ahead to skip the queue. Allow three hours minimum. The Accademia houses Michelangelo's David — the photographs cannot prepare you for the scale of it. The Bargello (sculpture museum, in a medieval palace) is less visited and equally magnificent.

The Brancacci Chapel in the Carmine church has Masaccio's frescoes from 1425 — arguably the single most important paintings in Western art for establishing perspective and naturalism. Almost nobody is there.

The Duomo

Brunelleschi's dome (completed 1436) remains one of the greatest architectural achievements in history. Climb it — 463 steps, no lift, extraordinary views. Book the time slot in advance. The cathedral floor and the museum at the base of the dome are free and undervisited.

What to Eat

Bistecca alla Fiorentina — a thick-cut T-bone of Chianina beef, cooked rare, at Buca Mario or Trattoria Sostanza. Lampredotto (tripe sandwich) from the mobile vendors near the Mercato Centrale. Gelato from Gelateria dei Neri or Sbrino — the key indicator of quality is that the gelato is stored in metal containers with lids, not piled in colourful peaks. A glass of Chianti Classico costs €3 at the right wine bar.

Day Trips

Siena (90 minutes by bus) is the other great Tuscan city, with its impossibly dramatic Piazza del Campo. San Gimignano (medieval towers, good white wine). The Chianti Classico wine road between Florence and Siena is best done by hire car: Greve, Panzano, Radda, Castellina.

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Reviews from Florence

Portrait Firenze: Florence's Most Personal Luxury
Hotel

Portrait Firenze: Florence's Most Personal Luxury

The Portrait Firenze occupies a Luisa Via Roma family palazzo directly on the Arno, opposite the Ponte Vecchio. It is the most intimate luxury hotel in Florence — 37 suites, no queues, no crowds, and a level of personal service that is becoming genuinely rare.

4.8

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