Dubrovnik

Getting There

Fly into Dubrovnik (DBV). In summer, book early — the airport serves most European cities directly and routes fill quickly. Ferry connections to Split, Hvar, and the islands are excellent from the port below the old town.

The Old Town

The walled city is the reason for the visit. Walk the city walls first — 1,940 metres of battlements with views in both directions, costing around €35. Do it at opening time before the cruise ship passengers arrive. Within the walls, the marble-paved Stradun runs through the centre and is lined with baroque churches, cafes, and the occasional excellent restaurant.

The city is extraordinary and genuinely crowded in July and August. The Game of Thrones effect brought numbers that the narrow streets were not designed for. The best time to be here is the early morning before 9am when the cruise passengers haven't disembarked, or in May and September when they're fewer in number.

The Beaches

The beach situation is mediocre within walking distance of the old town. Banje (closest) is fine. Take the cable car up Mount Srd and walk down to the coves on the other side for something quieter. The island of Lokrum (15 minutes by boat) has better swimming and the FKK beach at its southern tip.

Day Trips

The Elafiti Islands are reachable by boat and significantly less crowded than Dubrovnik itself. Mljet, further along the coast, has a national park with two saltwater lakes and is one of the most beautiful places in the Adriatic. Both are worth a full day.

What to Eat

Grilled fish at a konoba (traditional tavern) in the old town. Peka — meat or seafood slow-cooked under an iron bell covered with embers — needs to be ordered hours in advance but rewards the planning. The oysters from Mali Ston (an hour's drive north) are excellent. The local wine — Plavac Mali from Pelješac — is deeply underrated.