The most ambitious city ever built in the shortest time — the world's tallest tower, artificial islands, an indoor ski slope in the desert, and a food scene that has quietly become one of the world's best.
Getting There
Fly into Dubai International (DXB) — one of the world's busiest airports with direct connections from virtually every major city. The metro runs from the airport to the city; the Red Line covers most visitor sites. Taxis are metered and cheap by European standards.
The Architecture
Dubai builds at a scale that requires recalibration. The Burj Khalifa (828 metres, the world's tallest building) is best experienced from the 124th or 148th floor observation decks — book online in advance to avoid queues and for significantly better prices. The view at sunset, when the desert turns terracotta and the Gulf glitters, is one of the great urban panoramas. The Dubai Frame, the Museum of the Future, and the Expo City site (from the 2020 World Expo) are the other architectural statements worth seeing.
The Food Scene
Dubai has quietly become one of the world's great restaurant cities — proximity to exceptional ingredients (Gulf seafood, regional produce from across the Middle East) and a resident population from over 200 countries has created something genuinely interesting. The Dubai Food Festival in spring is the best time to experience the full range. For daily eating: Al Ustad Special Kabab in Deira for the best grilled fish and kebabs; the Global Village (October–April) for street food from 90 countries in one site; Arabian Tea House in the Al Fahidi heritage district for traditional Emirati breakfast.
The Desert
Dubai without the desert is Dubai without context. An overnight desert camp with a reputable operator — dinner under the stars, camel rides at sunset, sandboarding on the dunes — provides the geographical reality that the city was built to transcend. Arabian Adventures and Desert Safari Dubai are among the better-regarded operators.
What Not to Do
The indoor ski slope at Mall of the Emirates is a curiosity worth 20 minutes of your time. Shopping mall tourism as a primary activity is a waste of the city. The best Dubai is found in the creek district of Deira (oldest part of the city), in the Al Fahidi historical neighbourhood, and in the restaurants where residents actually eat.
Posts from Dubai
Old Dubai: Finding History Behind the Skyscrapers
Most visitors to Dubai see only the gleaming towers and artificial islands. But an older city exists in Deira and Al Fahidi — one of narrow wind-tower architecture, traditional souks and a genuine sense of the trading port Dubai once was.
Dubai's Luxury Hotels: Worth Every Dirham?
Dubai has the highest concentration of ultra-luxury hotels anywhere in the world. Some are spectacular values for what they deliver. Others are enormously expensive for a bed, a view and a brand name. Here is the honest assessment.
Reviews from Dubai
Burj Al Arab, Dubai: The Hotel That Invented Itself
The Burj Al Arab is either the most audacious or the most excessive hotel in the world, depending on your temperament. Having stayed there, I can confirm it is both simultaneously — and that it is absolutely worth doing once.
Videos from Dubai
Dubai's Architecture: From Creek to Cloud
Dubai has built the most extraordinary skyline on earth in under 50 years. We tour the architecture — from the traditional wind towers of Al Fahidi to the impossible ambition of the Burj Khalifa.
Comments
No comments yet. Be the first to share your thoughts.