Old Dubai: Finding History Behind the Skyscrapers

Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood

The Al Fahidi area (formerly Bastakiya) is Dubai's oldest surviving neighbourhood — a warren of narrow lanes, wind-tower houses and courtyard buildings dating from the early 20th century. It has been carefully restored and now houses the excellent Dubai Museum (housed in the 1787 Al Fahidi Fort, admission 3 AED — extraordinary value), independent art galleries, and atmospheric cafés.

The Dubai Creek

Take an abra (traditional wooden water taxi) across Dubai Creek — the waterway that split old Dubai into Deira and Bur Dubai. The 1 AED fare is Dubai's greatest bargain. From the water, the contrast between the old trade port and the modern skyline is striking.

The Souks

The Gold Souk in Deira contains more gold jewellery per square metre than anywhere else on earth — rows of shops displaying elaborate pieces in a covered arcade. Prices are transparent and negotiation is expected. The nearby Spice Souk is smaller but fragrant — saffron, frankincense, dried limes, cardamom.

Bastakiya Art District

Coffee Museum, XVA Art Hotel and the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU) all operate within Al Fahidi. The SMCCU runs "Cultures and Conversations" sessions — breakfast or lunch with Emirati hosts discussing local culture — which are exceptional.

Getting There

Take the Metro to Al Fahidi station. Everything in the old quarter is walkable from there.