Tokyo is the most fully realised city on earth. Thirty-seven million people, one of the lowest crime rates in the world, food that defies all reasonable expectation, and a public transport system that makes every other city look like a failed prototype.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Narita or Haneda — Haneda is closer to the city and worth the slightly higher fare. Buy an IC card (Suica or Pasmo) at the airport; it covers trains, buses, and most convenience stores. A 72-hour metro pass rarely saves money compared to the IC card unless you're making six or more journeys a day.
Where to Stay
Shinjuku puts you at the centre of Tokyo's rail network and walking distance from some of its best food and nightlife. Shibuya is younger, louder, better for fashion. Asakusa is calmer, more traditional, and significantly cheaper. For a first visit, Shinjuku is the practical choice.
What to Eat
The city has more Michelin stars than anywhere else in the world, but this is also where you'll find the best bowl of ramen you've ever eaten for ¥900. The two experiences are not in competition. Street food — taiyaki, takoyaki, yakitori from Omoide Yokocho — sits alongside counter sushi served by chefs who have done nothing else for 30 years. Both deserve your attention.
Some specifics: breakfast at Tsukiji Outer Market, lunch at a neighbourhood teishoku (set meal) restaurant, dinner in one of the standing sushi bars in Shinjuku. Budget around ¥3,000–5,000 per day for food if you're eating well without being extravagant.
What to See
Skip the approach to Senso-ji on busy days and enter from the side streets. The Meiji Shrine is at its best early morning before the crowds arrive. Yanaka is the neighbourhood that survived the earthquakes and the bombs — old wooden houses, cats, and independent shops on Yanaka Ginza. Shibuya Crossing is best watched from above (the Starbucks or Mag's Park) rather than from within it.
The teamLab digital art installations divide opinion but are worth seeing once. The Tokyo National Museum in Ueno is genuinely excellent and consistently undervisited.
When to Go
March to April for cherry blossom — book accommodation four to six months ahead. October to November for autumn colour and comfortable temperatures. Avoid August: the humidity is punishing and the city is at maximum tourist density.
Practical Notes
- Cash is still essential at smaller restaurants, bars, and markets. Many places are card-only for larger purchases.
- Google Translate's camera function handles menus adequately.
- Convenience stores (7-Eleven, Lawson, FamilyMart) are genuinely good for food at any hour.
- The last trains run around midnight. After that, taxis are your only option and they are expensive.
Posts from Tokyo
72 Hours in Tokyo: The Only Itinerary You Need
From tsukiji fish market at dawn to hidden jazz bars in Shinjuku at midnight — our perfect 3-day Tokyo plan.
Day Trips from Tokyo: Nikko, Hakone and Kamakura
Tokyo is an extraordinary base for day trips. Within two hours you can be standing before the great Buddha of Kamakura, soaking in an onsen facing Mount Fuji, or exploring a World Heritage shrine complex in the mountains of Nikko.
Tokyo for Food Lovers: The Ultimate Eating Guide
From two-Michelin-starred omakase counters to standing ramen bars that cost less than a pint, Tokyo is the greatest food city on earth. Here is how to eat your way through it.
Reviews from Tokyo
Aman Tokyo: Stillness in the Sky Above Otemachi
On the 33rd through 38th floors of the Otemachi Tower, Aman Tokyo occupies a position that seems physically impossible: a traditional Japanese inn floating above one of the most intense cities on earth. It is extraordinary.
Videos from Tokyo
24 Hours in Tokyo: The City That Never Sleeps
One full day in Tokyo, from dawn at Tsukiji outer market to midnight ramen in Shinjuku. We cover the essential stops, the hidden corners, and the food that makes this city unmissable.
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