The only city in the world on two continents, with a skyline of minarets and domes that has been accumulating for three thousand years. The Grand Bazaar, the Hagia Sophia, the Bosphorus at sunset — none of it disappoints.
Getting There
Fly into Istanbul Sabiha Gökçen (SAW, on the Asian side) or Istanbul Airport (IST, on the European side). Istanbul Airport is larger and better connected; the Havaist bus runs to Taksim in about 45 minutes (traffic-dependent). Within the city, the tram, metro, and ferry network is comprehensive; an Istanbulkart covers everything.
The Hagia Sophia and the Mosques
The Hagia Sophia has been a church, a mosque, a museum, and a mosque again — the layers are visible in the architecture and the decoration. Free entry; cover your shoulders and remove shoes. The Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed) opposite is the most photographed but the Süleymaniye Mosque above the Grand Bazaar is arguably more magnificent and significantly less crowded.
The Topkapı Palace — the seat of Ottoman power for 400 years — requires a half-day at minimum. The Harem section requires a separate ticket and a guided tour; book at the entrance.
The Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar (4,400 shops, 91 streets, 15th century) is overwhelming and worth a few hours for the experience even if you don't intend to buy anything. Carpet dealers will invite you in for tea; this is worth accepting once, without obligation to buy. The Egyptian Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) near the Galata Bridge is smaller, more manageable, and the correct place to buy saffron, sumac, and dried fruits.
The Bosphorus
Take a ferry across and back — the 20-minute crossing between the European and Asian shores is one of the great short journeys in travel. The Bosphorus cruise (long form, several hours, stopping at palaces and fortresses along the shore) is worth doing once and best booked through a smaller operator rather than the large tourist boats.
Food
Turkish breakfast (simit, olives, white cheese, eggs, tomatoes, cucumbers, tea) is one of the finest breakfast traditions in the world. Eat it somewhere with a Bosphorus view. For dinner: Çiya Sofrası in Kadiköy on the Asian side serves Anatolian cooking from regional recipes that are vanishing elsewhere. Baklava from Hafız Mustafa (founded 1864).
Posts from Istanbul
Istanbul's Rooftops: The Best Views of the Bosphorus
Istanbul's topography — hills tumbling to the water on both sides of the strait — makes it one of the world's great cities for elevated views. The rooftop bars and restaurants that take advantage of this are among the city's finest experiences.
Istanbul's Food Scene: From Street Food to Fine Dining
Istanbul's food is the bridge between East and West, and it deserves to be taken as seriously as any European culinary capital. Here is where to eat across every price point.
Reviews from Istanbul
Pera Palace Hotel, Istanbul: Where Agatha Christie Wrote a Novel
The Pera Palace opened in 1892 to serve passengers arriving on the Orient Express. Agatha Christie wrote Murder on the Orient Express here. Atatürk had a private room. It remains one of the great railway hotels of the world — meticulously restored and genuinely extraordinary.
Videos from Istanbul
Istanbul: A City Between Two Worlds
Istanbul straddles Europe and Asia, Christianity and Islam, ancient and hypermodern. We spend a week exploring both sides of the Bosphorus and the layered history that makes this city endlessly fascinating.
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