The former capital of the Inca Empire, perched at 3,400 metres in the Andes — Inca stonework beneath Spanish colonial architecture, the gateway to Machu Picchu, and a food revolution led by Gastón Acurio.
Getting There
Fly into Alejandro Velasco Astete (CUZ). The altitude is 3,400 metres — acclimatise before attempting Machu Picchu. Direct flights from Lima take 1.25 hours. From Cusco, trains to Aguas Calientes (the base town for Machu Picchu) take 3.5 hours; book the Inca Rail or Peru Rail well in advance.
Machu Picchu
The Inca citadel sits at 2,430 metres, perched on a ridge between two mountain peaks, built without mortar in the 15th century and abandoned (and subsequently unknown to the wider world) until 1911. Numbers are now capped at 5,600 per day; book tickets through the official site (machupicchu.gob.pe) months in advance. The site opens at 6am; the first entry slot is worth the early start for the low-angle light and the reduced crowds.
Hike up Huayna Picchu (the pointed peak behind the city in the classic photograph) for the most dramatic views — only 400 permits per day, sells out quickly. Machu Picchu Mountain (the mountain behind the gate) is a longer hike but less competitive for tickets.
Cusco
Cusco was the centre of the Inca Empire and the city reveals this in the foundations — Spanish colonial buildings built directly on top of Inca stonework, which is generally more impressive. The Qorikancha (the Temple of the Sun) has the finest Inca masonry visible anywhere. The San Pedro Market is the best food market in the city. Plaza de Armas in the evening, with the Cathedral and the church of La Compañía illuminated, is one of the better central squares in South America.
The Food
Ceviche in Peru is different from everywhere else — tigre de leche (tiger's milk, the citrus marinade curing liquid), corn, sweet potato. The best is in Lima but Cusco has good representations. Lomo saltado (stir-fried beef with chips and tomatoes) and ají de gallina (chicken in ají amarillo cream sauce) are the dishes to eat throughout the country.
Altitude
Acclimatise seriously. Rest on your first day in Cusco; drink coca leaf tea (legal, mild, effective for altitude); avoid alcohol for the first 48 hours. Altitude sickness is genuinely debilitating if you push too hard too soon.
Posts from Cusco
A Week in Cusco: Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley
Cusco sits at 3,400 metres — high enough to stop most visitors in their tracks on arrival. Spend two days acclimatising, then the Inca Empire's greatest sites are within reach.
Reviews from Cusco
Belmond Hotel Monasterio, Cusco: Sleeping in a Convent at 3,400 Metres
The Belmond Monasterio occupies a 16th-century Jesuit seminary in the heart of Cusco's historic centre. At 3,400 metres above sea level, it is one of the world's most atmospheric — and most physiologically challenging — hotels.
Videos from Cusco
The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu: Four Days in the Andes
The classic four-day Inca Trail — 45 kilometres, four mountain passes, dozens of archaeological sites, and the most dramatic arrival at a destination in the world. All of it documented.
Comments
No comments yet. Be the first to share your thoughts.