A Perfect Weekend in Cartagena's Old Town
Cartagena de Indias is Colombia's jewel — a walled colonial city of coloured facades, bougainvillea spilling over balconies, and Caribbean heat that demands you slow down.
The Walled City
Cartagena's 17th-century city walls (Las Murallas) enclose a perfectly preserved colonial town of plazas, churches and ornate colonial mansions. The best initial orientation is a walk along the top of the walls at sunset — views over the Caribbean to one side and the city rooftops to the other.
Getting Around
The old town is entirely walkable — about 2km across. The narrow streets between the Plaza de Bolívar, Plaza de la Trinidad and Plaza de Santo Domingo form the essential grid. An evening stroll from one to the next, with stops for fresh fruit juice from cart vendors, is the fundamental Cartagena experience.
Where to Stay
The best accommodation is within the walls: boutique hotels in converted colonial mansions with internal courtyards. Casa San Agustín is the finest; Hotel Ananda and Sofitel Legend Santa Clara are excellent alternatives. Rates are significantly lower than equivalent European boutique hotels.
Eating and Drinking
La Cevichería on Calle Stuart does the best ceviche in Cartagena — reservations essential. El Boliche in Getsemaní (just outside the walls) is more local and excellent value for fresh seafood. Café del Mar on the walls is overpriced but worth one drink for the sunset view.
Getsemaní
The neighbourhood outside the walls that was once considered rough is now the most interesting in Cartagena — street art, rooftop bars, good restaurants at honest prices. Stay in the walled city but eat and drink in Getsemaní.
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